Mashhad
Overview
Mashhad is the holiest city in Iran and the third holiest city in the world, so the only reason to come here is if you are a real muslim or if you want to see what it is the impressive Imam Reza Shrine Complex. In our, case, it was the second reason and we were not disappointed. The complex is huge, like a city within Mashhad and it is still being widened and minarets are being built everywhere. Quite crazy spending millions on this when Iran is not the richest of countries, but up to them, if they prefer praying than eating it's not me who's gonna tell them what to do. One day in the city is enough to visit the complex, as there's not much more to see, even if Mashhad is the scond biggest city in Iran.
Sightseeing
Imam Reza's Holy Shrine. That's the main reason why people come to Mashhad. It is a city within a city and the center is the shrine of the Imam Reza, under a golden dome visible from almost everywhere in Mashhad.
To get inside the complex there are many gates, just pick one of your choice but don't bring bags or cameras, as you'll have to leave them outside. However, taking pictures with your phone is perfectly allowed.
You can easily spend 3 hours exploring the complex. There are a couple of mosques, plenty of minarets, halls, squares and pilgrims everywhere. Non-muslims are not allowed to enter the shrine. Nobody asked us, but if they do, just tell them you are muslim. We could walk freely all over the place and no problems at all to get inside the shrine. This is the highlight of the complex. You enter there through a corridor full of small mirrors (it looks like you are going to the Palace of the President of the world) and after some walk and some halls you get to the shrine itself. A huge golden box surrounded by hundreds of people crying, kissing the shrine and throwing money into it (or just into the air if they cannot reach the shrine). If you can reach the shrine and have a look inside you'll notice the only thing you see is bank notes, as the tomb of the Imam is totally covered by money. Really an impressive sight and really impressive to see how these people live the whole thing. I wonder if they would cry so much for one of their relatives. Totally crazy from my point of view.
After visiting the shrine, you can wander around and wait to be dark, as the whole complex is lit and it is really nice to see, especially the square facing the golden dome.
Besides the holy shrine, you can have a walk around the nearby bazaar and get yourself a "perfect muslim kit" for 10000 rials or whatever you want.
To get inside the complex there are many gates, just pick one of your choice but don't bring bags or cameras, as you'll have to leave them outside. However, taking pictures with your phone is perfectly allowed.
You can easily spend 3 hours exploring the complex. There are a couple of mosques, plenty of minarets, halls, squares and pilgrims everywhere. Non-muslims are not allowed to enter the shrine. Nobody asked us, but if they do, just tell them you are muslim. We could walk freely all over the place and no problems at all to get inside the shrine. This is the highlight of the complex. You enter there through a corridor full of small mirrors (it looks like you are going to the Palace of the President of the world) and after some walk and some halls you get to the shrine itself. A huge golden box surrounded by hundreds of people crying, kissing the shrine and throwing money into it (or just into the air if they cannot reach the shrine). If you can reach the shrine and have a look inside you'll notice the only thing you see is bank notes, as the tomb of the Imam is totally covered by money. Really an impressive sight and really impressive to see how these people live the whole thing. I wonder if they would cry so much for one of their relatives. Totally crazy from my point of view.
After visiting the shrine, you can wander around and wait to be dark, as the whole complex is lit and it is really nice to see, especially the square facing the golden dome.
Besides the holy shrine, you can have a walk around the nearby bazaar and get yourself a "perfect muslim kit" for 10000 rials or whatever you want.
Accomodation
We stayed at Pars Hotel, near the Turkmen embassy and some 20 minutes walk from the shrine. Quite good place, really nice owner and 16 USD per night. We were adviced to avoid the famous Vali's non-smoking guesthouse appearing in all the Lonely Planets, as some robberies had been taken place there and Vali is such a greedy guy. We didn't check it, but that's the advice.
Food & Drink
Kebab, pizza, hamburger. That's Iran.
Transportation
We got to Mashhad after an 13-hour night VIP bus from Kerman (475000 rials per person). The route goes along the Afgan border, so expect lots of police checkpoints and even policemen getting to the bus and waking you up in the middle of the night asking for your camera to check your pictures in case you are a spy, which happened to us. The policeman was actually quite stupid becase he only checked the phone, not the camera, so we could have been perfect spies.
To get out from Mashhad we took a taxi to the Turkmen border in Bagjiran, although there's no place to sleep there, so you better go to Quchan and stay overnight there for 400000 rials and next morning cross the border.
To get out from Mashhad we took a taxi to the Turkmen border in Bagjiran, although there's no place to sleep there, so you better go to Quchan and stay overnight there for 400000 rials and next morning cross the border.
Safety
No issues at all, just the normal danger crossing the street, as traffic in Mashhad is quite busy.
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