Shiraz
Overview
Shiraz is one of the most reccomendable places to go in Iran together with Yazd and Esfahan. Quite relaxed city, its main attractions are the bazaar, the outofthisworld shrine and the amazing Nasir-al-Molk mosque in the morning.
One hour away by taxi you have Persepolis, the ancient Persian city which, even if you don't like ruins, you will enjoy for sure. So, don't miss Shiraz, even if there's no wine you'll like it!
One hour away by taxi you have Persepolis, the ancient Persian city which, even if you don't like ruins, you will enjoy for sure. So, don't miss Shiraz, even if there's no wine you'll like it!
Sightseeing
Shiraz sights are limited but they are really really nice. Start with a walk through the lively and crowded Bazaar-e Vakil, visit the Argh (fortress) from the outside and a couple of interesting mosques on the way. Get yourself a rosary and then head to the southern side of the bazaar accross the street to get to the Shah-e Cheragh Shrine. Here starts the fun.
- Shah-e Cheragh Shrine: The most beautiful shrine in the whole Iran. Go there both in the morning and at night. The complex is quite big and you will be checked at the entrance. No cameras are allowed, but you can use your phone camera without problems. At the entrance, if they notice you are foreigner, some members of the Foreign Pilgrims Office will approach you and after some cookies and tea, will take you inside the two shrines and explain you everything about the complex. They are really nice, and unlike the ones in Qom, they will let you alone after the explanations.
Within the shrine, there are two brothers of Imam Reza buried in two different shrines. The interiors are sublime with small mirrors and the exterior is spectacular especially at night.
- Nasir-al-Molk Mosque: One of the most beautiful mosques in Iran and for sure the most beautiful in the morning. Why in the morning? The mosque is full of colorful stained-glass windows and with the sunlight in the morning the interior becomes fully colorful. Don't miss it and go there before 12 as they close for praying.
- Ali Ebn-e Hamze Shrine: Across the river, this Shrine has the typical beautiful mirrors inside but in addition it features a really nice garden in front of it. During the Muharram month they give free tea and cookies in the evening :)
- Bagh-e Eram: A botanical garden far from the centre. Get a taxi to go there or just skip it, as it is overpriced and it's not more than a normal garden with a quite nice palace but you csnnot get inside it. Not worth going there.
- Persepolis: Don't avoid it if you are in Shiraz. It makes for a perfect day trip. It's just one hour away by shared taxi or by minibus. Entrance fee it's 150000 rials and you can see the whole ancient town in 3 or 4 hours. Actually the site was much better than expected. It's not the typical ruined town. Even if it's ruins, there are really wonderful and well preserved carvings. there's a main marked path which you can follow, but you can also explore the surroundings and climb to the two tombs for nice views over all Persepolis and the surroundings.
- Shah-e Cheragh Shrine: The most beautiful shrine in the whole Iran. Go there both in the morning and at night. The complex is quite big and you will be checked at the entrance. No cameras are allowed, but you can use your phone camera without problems. At the entrance, if they notice you are foreigner, some members of the Foreign Pilgrims Office will approach you and after some cookies and tea, will take you inside the two shrines and explain you everything about the complex. They are really nice, and unlike the ones in Qom, they will let you alone after the explanations.
Within the shrine, there are two brothers of Imam Reza buried in two different shrines. The interiors are sublime with small mirrors and the exterior is spectacular especially at night.
- Nasir-al-Molk Mosque: One of the most beautiful mosques in Iran and for sure the most beautiful in the morning. Why in the morning? The mosque is full of colorful stained-glass windows and with the sunlight in the morning the interior becomes fully colorful. Don't miss it and go there before 12 as they close for praying.
- Ali Ebn-e Hamze Shrine: Across the river, this Shrine has the typical beautiful mirrors inside but in addition it features a really nice garden in front of it. During the Muharram month they give free tea and cookies in the evening :)
- Bagh-e Eram: A botanical garden far from the centre. Get a taxi to go there or just skip it, as it is overpriced and it's not more than a normal garden with a quite nice palace but you csnnot get inside it. Not worth going there.
- Persepolis: Don't avoid it if you are in Shiraz. It makes for a perfect day trip. It's just one hour away by shared taxi or by minibus. Entrance fee it's 150000 rials and you can see the whole ancient town in 3 or 4 hours. Actually the site was much better than expected. It's not the typical ruined town. Even if it's ruins, there are really wonderful and well preserved carvings. there's a main marked path which you can follow, but you can also explore the surroundings and climb to the two tombs for nice views over all Persepolis and the surroundings.
Accomodation
We stayed at Golshan Hotel, similar to the hotels in Yazd, with a nice courtyard (small, though) and nice rooms. 25 USD after bargaining. It's really close to the shrine but quite difficult to find.
Food & Drink
Kebab, pizza, hamburger. There is a traditional restaurant near the Argh, but it was closed when we visited it. No teahouses found.
Transportation
The main bus station is some 20 minutes walk from the center, that is from the shrine. We came to Shiraz from Yazd (some 6 hours) and went from Shiraz to Tehran in a VIP night bus that took 11 hours.
To get to Persepolis you can go to the bus station in the morning and agree a price with one of the many taxi drivers offerring you to take you there (200000 rials is a quite god price) or just jump into a minibus, go to the town of Marvdasht and get a taxi from there. This last option is the cheapest one. On the way back you can do the same thing: Taxi to Marvdasht for some 30000 rials and minibus to Shiraz for another 10000 rials per person.
To get to Persepolis you can go to the bus station in the morning and agree a price with one of the many taxi drivers offerring you to take you there (200000 rials is a quite god price) or just jump into a minibus, go to the town of Marvdasht and get a taxi from there. This last option is the cheapest one. On the way back you can do the same thing: Taxi to Marvdasht for some 30000 rials and minibus to Shiraz for another 10000 rials per person.
Safety
Safe, safe, safe.
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