Pokhara (Before 2015 earthquake)
Note: After the 2015 earthquake, some of the sights and accomodation, may have been damaged
Overview
Pokhara is an oasis of
tranquility in Nepal, especially if you come from Kathmandu. It is the
perfect place to relax after a long trek, to go paragliding, to rent a kayak,
to have a beer by the lake or to have one of the best chocolate creppes ever.
If you plan to go trekking around the Annapurnas, it is also a good place to buy the last stuff you need in the mini-Thamel that the Lakeside is, to apply for your permit and to board a bus to the starting place of your trek.
Other than that, Pokhara has almost no sights, but the paragliding, the lake and the astonishing views of all the Annapurna Range and the Daulaghiri in a clear sky day are reasons enough not to miss this city.
If you plan to go trekking around the Annapurnas, it is also a good place to buy the last stuff you need in the mini-Thamel that the Lakeside is, to apply for your permit and to board a bus to the starting place of your trek.
Other than that, Pokhara has almost no sights, but the paragliding, the lake and the astonishing views of all the Annapurna Range and the Daulaghiri in a clear sky day are reasons enough not to miss this city.
Sightseeing
-Pokhara Lake: Pokhara is set right next to a beautiful lake. It is really nice to walk next to it, especially around sunset. You can rent boats or kayaks, visit a temple situated in a tiny island or stop for a beer in one of the many bars located along the lake enjoying a sublime view of the lake.
-Lakeside: It is the mini-Thamel of Pokhara. Unlike in Kathmandu, here it is far more relaxed, with less traffic and less people bothering you. You can find plenty of Western bars and restaurants plus the typical souvenir shops, bookshops and fake trekking stuff shops. It is also where most of the hotels are.
-World Peace Pagoda: The pagoda itself is not worth at all. It is a Japanese temple which you cannot enter and just walk around. But the climb it is really worth for the views. From the top you will have an aerial view of Pokhara, the lake, and in a clear day, you will be able to see the whole Annapurna Range plus the Daulaghiri. A really reccomendable walk.
It will take you less than 2 hours to go from the Lakeside to the Pagoda. Walk towards the Damside, cross a bridge and then ask the locals for the way up, as it is not signposted and it’s quite difficult to find the right path. On the top, there’s a guesthouse and a couple of restaurants.
On the way down, take the steps instead of going back through the forest. You’ll pass through some houses and you’ll see a bit of non-touristry Pokhara. Once down, you’ll be close to the caves and waterfalls of Pokhara. Avoid them, they are not worth at all, and instead take a local bus back to the Lakeside.
-Paragliding: This is a must-do activity if you visit Pokhara. It is actually said to be the best place in the world to practice this sport.
There are hundreds of companies offering paragliding flights all around Pokhara, but the price is fixed by law, so no need to shop around. We booked our flight through the guesthouse and the price was 8000 rupees for a 30 minutes flight. It is a bit expensive, but worth every single cent.
You can choose between 3 flight times. Go for the early morning one (around 10), as it is when you have more chances of seeing the Annapurna Range. Normally, from 11 or 12, the clouds start to appear and then you don’t see anything. On the other hand, the later you fly the higher you can go thanks to the air.
-Kayaking: You can rent a kayak for 200 rupees per hour and explore a bit the lake on your own. Paddle the other side of the lake and you’ll enjoy views of the Annapurna Range.
Besides, you can also go outside the Lakeside and see a bit of the real Pokhara, where you’ll find a Tibetan neighbourhood and some Tibetan temples, although having already been to Tibet, we skipped it.
-Lakeside: It is the mini-Thamel of Pokhara. Unlike in Kathmandu, here it is far more relaxed, with less traffic and less people bothering you. You can find plenty of Western bars and restaurants plus the typical souvenir shops, bookshops and fake trekking stuff shops. It is also where most of the hotels are.
-World Peace Pagoda: The pagoda itself is not worth at all. It is a Japanese temple which you cannot enter and just walk around. But the climb it is really worth for the views. From the top you will have an aerial view of Pokhara, the lake, and in a clear day, you will be able to see the whole Annapurna Range plus the Daulaghiri. A really reccomendable walk.
It will take you less than 2 hours to go from the Lakeside to the Pagoda. Walk towards the Damside, cross a bridge and then ask the locals for the way up, as it is not signposted and it’s quite difficult to find the right path. On the top, there’s a guesthouse and a couple of restaurants.
On the way down, take the steps instead of going back through the forest. You’ll pass through some houses and you’ll see a bit of non-touristry Pokhara. Once down, you’ll be close to the caves and waterfalls of Pokhara. Avoid them, they are not worth at all, and instead take a local bus back to the Lakeside.
-Paragliding: This is a must-do activity if you visit Pokhara. It is actually said to be the best place in the world to practice this sport.
There are hundreds of companies offering paragliding flights all around Pokhara, but the price is fixed by law, so no need to shop around. We booked our flight through the guesthouse and the price was 8000 rupees for a 30 minutes flight. It is a bit expensive, but worth every single cent.
You can choose between 3 flight times. Go for the early morning one (around 10), as it is when you have more chances of seeing the Annapurna Range. Normally, from 11 or 12, the clouds start to appear and then you don’t see anything. On the other hand, the later you fly the higher you can go thanks to the air.
-Kayaking: You can rent a kayak for 200 rupees per hour and explore a bit the lake on your own. Paddle the other side of the lake and you’ll enjoy views of the Annapurna Range.
Besides, you can also go outside the Lakeside and see a bit of the real Pokhara, where you’ll find a Tibetan neighbourhood and some Tibetan temples, although having already been to Tibet, we skipped it.
Accomodation
We visited Pokhara twice. First time we stayed at Hotel Diplomat for 1000 rupees per night. Really nice owner, nice room, quite good internet and well located. Totally recommended.
The second time we stayed at R&R Guesthouse. 1000 rupees per night, not good internet, OK owners and not on the main road.
Definitely, go for Hotel Diplomat.
The second time we stayed at R&R Guesthouse. 1000 rupees per night, not good internet, OK owners and not on the main road.
Definitely, go for Hotel Diplomat.
Food & Drink
Tons of options to eat and drink in Pokhara and for all budgets. Especially to mention are the following:
-Metro: For the best creppes not only in Pokhara, but probably in a big part of the world, go to Metro. It’s a tiny little place off a street in the Lakeside. After Center Point, when you see a restaurant called Zorba, turn left.
They have a nice rooftop with wifi and a nice selection of creppes, bith sweet and savoury. The chocolate one at 200 rupees is our favourite!
Don’t miss Metro!
-Funky Salsa: After having tried the pizzas in Kathmandu, having one at Funky Salsa is a pleasure. It is not the best pizza you will ever have, but good and cheap enough! They have other kind of food, too. It is located on the main road, a bit after the Metro crossing.
-Fujiyama Restaurant: For a good and cheap Japanese restaurant, go to Fujiyama. Located before the Center Point coming from the tourist bus station.
-Emon Café: The cheapest pizza in Pokhara at 180 rupees. Located right next to the expensive Busy Bee. Sometimes you’ll get a good pizza, sometimes just a chewing gum one. They take an average of 45 minutes to serve the food.
-Perky Beans: A really good place for breakfast. Also located on the main road. They have a rooftop. Good creppes and coffee and a bit cheaper than Metro (although creppes are worse).
-Lakeshore Bars: There are quite a lot of bars facing the lake. Our favourite is a tiny small one offering San Miguel beer at 250 rupees. Really nice and relaxing experience having a beer right in front of the lake!
-Metro: For the best creppes not only in Pokhara, but probably in a big part of the world, go to Metro. It’s a tiny little place off a street in the Lakeside. After Center Point, when you see a restaurant called Zorba, turn left.
They have a nice rooftop with wifi and a nice selection of creppes, bith sweet and savoury. The chocolate one at 200 rupees is our favourite!
Don’t miss Metro!
-Funky Salsa: After having tried the pizzas in Kathmandu, having one at Funky Salsa is a pleasure. It is not the best pizza you will ever have, but good and cheap enough! They have other kind of food, too. It is located on the main road, a bit after the Metro crossing.
-Fujiyama Restaurant: For a good and cheap Japanese restaurant, go to Fujiyama. Located before the Center Point coming from the tourist bus station.
-Emon Café: The cheapest pizza in Pokhara at 180 rupees. Located right next to the expensive Busy Bee. Sometimes you’ll get a good pizza, sometimes just a chewing gum one. They take an average of 45 minutes to serve the food.
-Perky Beans: A really good place for breakfast. Also located on the main road. They have a rooftop. Good creppes and coffee and a bit cheaper than Metro (although creppes are worse).
-Lakeshore Bars: There are quite a lot of bars facing the lake. Our favourite is a tiny small one offering San Miguel beer at 250 rupees. Really nice and relaxing experience having a beer right in front of the lake!
Transportation
-From Kathmandu: Buses leave from Kantipath Street. 600 rupees if you book trough the office in the same road. It departs at 7 in the morning. 6:30 hours of journey with several stops to eat and toilet. Bus drops you at the Tourist Bus Station, 20 minutes walk from the Lakeside or some 100 rupees by taxi.
-To Kathmandu: Buses depart at 8 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Station. 700 rupees if booked through the hostel. It takes at least 7 hours to reach Kathmandu and it drops you 5 minutes walk from Thamel (North Side).
-To Besi Sahar: Buses depart at 6:30 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Station. 400 rupees. The trip lasts 4:30 hours with a small stop on the way. It is an old bus and a winding road, so prepare for a painful trip.
-From Jomsom: You can take a bus to Beni and from there another one to Pokhara, which makes for a total of some 13 hours, or, like we did, take a small plane and have one of the best commercial mountain flights in the world. The fligh lasts for only 20 minutes and it costs 112 USD, but the experience and the views are something you will always remember, so if your budget allows you, go for the small plane!
-To India: You have to take a bus to Bhairawa at 8 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Park. 800 rupees bough from the bus station. The trip takes 7 hours and it is painful, as all trips in Nepal. Once in Bhairawa, take a taxi to the border (100 rupees, less than 10 minutes). Get your passport stamped out of Nepal, walk through the”Welcome to India” sign and get your passport stamped into India. Really straightforward everything.
If heading to Varanasi, there’s a 10-hour bus straight from the border, otherwise, jump into a bus to Gorakhpur (3 hours, 93 Indian Rupees) and from there take a train to Varanasi or wherever you want to go in India.
-To Kathmandu: Buses depart at 8 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Station. 700 rupees if booked through the hostel. It takes at least 7 hours to reach Kathmandu and it drops you 5 minutes walk from Thamel (North Side).
-To Besi Sahar: Buses depart at 6:30 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Station. 400 rupees. The trip lasts 4:30 hours with a small stop on the way. It is an old bus and a winding road, so prepare for a painful trip.
-From Jomsom: You can take a bus to Beni and from there another one to Pokhara, which makes for a total of some 13 hours, or, like we did, take a small plane and have one of the best commercial mountain flights in the world. The fligh lasts for only 20 minutes and it costs 112 USD, but the experience and the views are something you will always remember, so if your budget allows you, go for the small plane!
-To India: You have to take a bus to Bhairawa at 8 in the morning from the Tourist Bus Park. 800 rupees bough from the bus station. The trip takes 7 hours and it is painful, as all trips in Nepal. Once in Bhairawa, take a taxi to the border (100 rupees, less than 10 minutes). Get your passport stamped out of Nepal, walk through the”Welcome to India” sign and get your passport stamped into India. Really straightforward everything.
If heading to Varanasi, there’s a 10-hour bus straight from the border, otherwise, jump into a bus to Gorakhpur (3 hours, 93 Indian Rupees) and from there take a train to Varanasi or wherever you want to go in India.
Safety
Pokhara is totally safe. Not even annoyances from people, not a lot of traffic… calm and relax everywhere!
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