What you can for sure skip is a trip to the nearby desert village of Toudeshk. Nothing there but dust and stones and a nice but nothing special guesthouse.
After leaving the stuff in the hostel, we headed for Esfahan's main square, said to be the second biggest in the world. It is the main sight of the city and it is really impressive and big, although it has recently been renovated and in my opinion it has lost a bit of charm.
On the way to the church (Vank Cathedral), we came accross a special Muharram celebration. It was a street parade with a lot of people and even some kind of floats singing and carrying out different rituals. Religion is really a big thing here and especially during the Muharram month, so a lot of special events are going on. You could see people hitting themselves with a steel kind of weapon, singing religious songs, walking in procession... quite impressive everything, so we stayed there for a while.
Anyway, while asking for an exchange money office, one of the guys at the few open shops in the bazar offered us to change some money, and actually at a very good rate, so the money problem was solved and we even got some tea in the shop. These Iranians are, again, really nice! Then back to the hostel and the following day devoted to the main sights.
After asking for a place to go up and from where to see the square from above, we were told that it is not possible anymore. There used to be two teahouses but the government shut them down. Wise asses! The only place to climb and have some views right now is the palace in the square, but it was undergoing renovations, so no chance of having an aerial view of the square. Anyway, from the ground you have a really impressive view. What you can do is visiting the two mosques, although, again, you can be a bit disappointed as the main one is undergoing renovations and the place looks much better from outside. We visited both of them and waited to be dark to see how the square is lit, which is actually nice but not a jaw-dropping experience.
Early morning bus to the station and from there to Toudeshk. We had previously booked our accomodation there, in the only place available: Tak-Taku homestay, a house where Mohammad (the owner) lives in with his brother, nephew and sister-in-law.
Toudeshk has two parts: the old and the new village, both of them really small. The old village is where the homestay is, and it consists mainly of mudbrick houses. Mohammad picked us up and drove us to his house. the house has a main living room, a kitchen, an outside toilet and the room for the guests (actually for the customers, as you really pay for it) which is quite nice. For 25 USD you get accomodation and 3 meals. But really, for being where it is, in the middle of nowhere and with almost nothing to do there but to sit in the room or take the bikes for a while, it is really overpriced.
Really, Toudeshk is a totally avoidable place. Maybe the experience was not totally fulfilling because Mohammad was feeling a bit sick and he didn't give much conversation, but neither did the other members of the family, so I don't really understand all the good opinions on the Internet. Besides, for 25 USD and being Iran, is far too much money for what you get.
On the other hand, Toudeshk is a totally missable place, you better head to Yazd after Esfahan or go somewhere else. Tak-Taku homestay is overpriced, Mohammad is helpful and nice, but you'll find a lot of people like him in Iran and they will not charge you 25 USD to stay at their place doing nothing, they are more likely to invite you to their place, give you food and take you sightseeing for free.
Don't forget to check the Esfahan travel guide! Pictures coming as soon as all the Iran posts are ready!