Earthlooping at the Giant Panda Breeding Center
Like in Iran, the Internet connection in China didn't allow for much. Everything is blocked and the speed is slow, so not the best conditions to keep a blog. Anyway, after being through all the Stans in Central Asia, we jumped into China for a taste of real Asia!
To be honest, we were quite looking forward to leave the Stans and enter China. The Stans are nice, especially Uzbekistan, but they look too much like Europe (especially Kazakhstan), so after spending a couple of weeks there we were feeling like having a radical change and get deep into Asia.
And so we did! We woke up early morning in Almaty, took a taxi to the bus station and jumped into the 7:00 am sleeper bus to Urumqi. The bus departed one hour late, but it was no problem as it was a sleeper one, that means instead of seats it had beds, not the big and comfy ones you have at home but for being a bus definitely better than seats. And that was much appreciated, as the journey was supposed to take us 24 hours.
Urumqi Train Station
The trip was quite good. On the Kazakh part of it, we were driving through a quite narrow and bad kept road, with a stopover for lunch. It was our last "European" meal before starting with real Asian food. A bit of sleep and in some 9 hours we were at the Kazakh-Chinese border.
The border clearance was really straightforward. On the Kazakh side they just stamp your passport out, while in the Chinese one you just have to fill in an immigration card, show your passport with your Chinese visa in it and that's it. No lugagge check, no customs declaration, nothing. So we were already in China!
The border clearance was really straightforward. On the Kazakh side they just stamp your passport out, while in the Chinese one you just have to fill in an immigration card, show your passport with your Chinese visa in it and that's it. No lugagge check, no customs declaration, nothing. So we were already in China!
Welcome to China!
And we really felt the change. The border post was a big, brand new building, while the border town looked also brand new, with big avenues, tall buildings and lights everywhere. During my first visit to China 5 years ago I noticed Chinese were building and building new stuff everywhere: roads, bridges, buildings... well, 5 years later it looks like they have at least finished some of the works.
Now the thing was waiting for our bus to come through the border, and that was going to take a while, so the driver told us to go to the bus station to have something to eat and wait there to retake the journey to Urumqi. We withdrawed some money from the ATM (our first yuans) and when the bus arrived continued with the trip, this time through a nice and smooth Chinese road, which, after some 3 or 4 hours stopped somewhere before our final destination (Chinese overnight buses always stop in the middle of the night for the drivers to sleep) took us to Urumqi.
Now the thing was waiting for our bus to come through the border, and that was going to take a while, so the driver told us to go to the bus station to have something to eat and wait there to retake the journey to Urumqi. We withdrawed some money from the ATM (our first yuans) and when the bus arrived continued with the trip, this time through a nice and smooth Chinese road, which, after some 3 or 4 hours stopped somewhere before our final destination (Chinese overnight buses always stop in the middle of the night for the drivers to sleep) took us to Urumqi.
Chengdu: our first stop in China, the city of Pandas
At around 7 in the morning, exactly 24 hours after taking the bus in Almaty, we were finally in Urumqi. The first thing to do was to go to the train station and try to book a train ticket to Chengdu. Yes, it was quite crazy taking into consideration that we were just after a 24-hour bus and the train from Urumqi to Chengdu takes 49 hours, but we were quite fresh, the trains in China are really good and we were quite in a hurry as we wanted to book our trip to Tibet as soon as possible, otherwise there was the risk that it might be closed for foreigners and then no Tibet for us.
Somehow we made it to the train station and first thing we noticed was the extreme police and military presence there. It looked like a war was about to start or something. Armed men everywhere. This is because there was a terrorist attack in that station last April, so now besides the military presence, to enter the station you have to go through endless security controls.
Anyway, after the controls and everything we could book a ticket to Chengdu for that same day at 5pm, which meant in 2 days we would be in the city of Pandas and we would hopefully be able to start the arrangements for the Tibet tour!
Somehow we made it to the train station and first thing we noticed was the extreme police and military presence there. It looked like a war was about to start or something. Armed men everywhere. This is because there was a terrorist attack in that station last April, so now besides the military presence, to enter the station you have to go through endless security controls.
Anyway, after the controls and everything we could book a ticket to Chengdu for that same day at 5pm, which meant in 2 days we would be in the city of Pandas and we would hopefully be able to start the arrangements for the Tibet tour!
Chengdu: Smog and skycrapers. And, yes, Pandas
We still had a couple of hours to take the train so decided to have a walk around Urumqi. It was really cold, colder than in the Stans, so the walk was reduced to a shopping mall and to a restaurant to have the first Chinese dumplings and Chinese noodles. It was a good feeling having Chinese food and using chopsticks after 5 years! And food was still as good as before! Oh, and yes, another thing that hasn't changed in China: Chinese people haven't learnt a single word of English... so communication is as difficult as it used to be.
We finished our meal, we headed back to the station and after clearing several security controls we went to the waiting hall. Chinese train stations are really crowded, and they look more like airports: there are shops and restaurants inside and a waiting hall for every train, which is announced in an electronic screen. Quite a good system, though.
Half an hour before the departure of the train, they opened the gates and we could get into it. We booked a hard sleeper place (a bunk bed in a 6-bed opened compartment), so we left our things there and started our journey to Chengdu.
We finished our meal, we headed back to the station and after clearing several security controls we went to the waiting hall. Chinese train stations are really crowded, and they look more like airports: there are shops and restaurants inside and a waiting hall for every train, which is announced in an electronic screen. Quite a good system, though.
Half an hour before the departure of the train, they opened the gates and we could get into it. We booked a hard sleeper place (a bunk bed in a 6-bed opened compartment), so we left our things there and started our journey to Chengdu.
The trip, despite lasting for 49 hours, was really good. Chinese trains are perfect, you have plenty of space to walk, to sleep... and every carriage has a boiling water tap which you can use for your tea or for your soups. We had previously stocked-up on food for the trip: cookies, drinks... and Chinese soups. These are ready-made soups with different flavours which only need hot water to be eaten. They are dirt cheap and really good, so we were living on them in all the long-distance train trips!
And exactly 49 hours after jumping on the train in Urumqi, we jumped out of it in Chengdu. The first mission was to find our hostel (Mix Hostel) to have some rest, as it was already more than 3 days since we started in Almaty without a normal bed. Luckily the hostel was quite close to the train station and with a short metro ride and a few minutes walking we were there.
And exactly 49 hours after jumping on the train in Urumqi, we jumped out of it in Chengdu. The first mission was to find our hostel (Mix Hostel) to have some rest, as it was already more than 3 days since we started in Almaty without a normal bed. Luckily the hostel was quite close to the train station and with a short metro ride and a few minutes walking we were there.
Earthlooping at the Wenshu Monastery
And in this short distance from the train station to the hostel we could already notice some changes in China from my last visit 5 years ago and some things that are the same. Chengdu is still permanently in the middle of a thick smog (both because of the weather and because of the pollution), they have built a metro (2 lines so far), they have built plenty of skyscrapers, they still love lights (all the streets and buildings are lit, quite appreciated after the darkness of the Stans) and a surprising thing: there are plenty of small motorbikes (scooters) and now they are all silent. yes, they are absolutely all electric, so maybe they have realised they really have a problem with pollution and they have started to find a solution. It is quite good, but also dangerous, as they don't respect any traffic rule and you can't hear them!
We arrived in the hostel to find out that hostels in China reamain the same as 5 years ago. And this is really good news! Chinese hostels are probably the best ones in the world! They are cheap, staff is nice and helpful, they have a courtyard where to sit and order drinks and food (both Chinese and Western) and rooms are nice and clean. So after being welcomed by the staff and leaving our stuff in the room, we ordered the first Tsingtao beer for 6 yuan! Yes, I still love China!
We arrived in the hostel to find out that hostels in China reamain the same as 5 years ago. And this is really good news! Chinese hostels are probably the best ones in the world! They are cheap, staff is nice and helpful, they have a courtyard where to sit and order drinks and food (both Chinese and Western) and rooms are nice and clean. So after being welcomed by the staff and leaving our stuff in the room, we ordered the first Tsingtao beer for 6 yuan! Yes, I still love China!
Playing at the People's Park
The first thing to do in Chengdu was finding out about the tour to Tibet. Actually this was the only reason to be in Chengdu. You, as a foreigner, are not allowed to go on your own to Tibet, so you must arrange a tour. To make things worse, the Chinese government closes the whole TIbet around New Year, which this year is on the 18th of February, so we were in quite a rush to arrange everything.
Talking with the staff there, we finally decided to apply for our Tibet permit from the 10th until the 16th of February. They had to send the passport and the Chinese visa to the Tibetan Bureau 15 days before the tour, and it would be only one week before the tour that we would know if we could go or we could not. So not much to do than wait and book our train tickets to Lhasa in case the tour thing worked (otherwise we could cancel them). We had some 3 weeks to spend in China in case we were going to Tibet, so decided to spend 3 days in Chengdu and then head south to Yunnan, a place I missed 5 years ago and regarded as really nice and with really good weather.
Talking with the staff there, we finally decided to apply for our Tibet permit from the 10th until the 16th of February. They had to send the passport and the Chinese visa to the Tibetan Bureau 15 days before the tour, and it would be only one week before the tour that we would know if we could go or we could not. So not much to do than wait and book our train tickets to Lhasa in case the tour thing worked (otherwise we could cancel them). We had some 3 weeks to spend in China in case we were going to Tibet, so decided to spend 3 days in Chengdu and then head south to Yunnan, a place I missed 5 years ago and regarded as really nice and with really good weather.
After some good sleep in a warm room and some Tsingtao beers, next day we went to explore a bit the city. I had already been there 5 years ago, but still we didn't feel like moving on again and this way we could see how much the city has changed. First day we went to visit Wenshu Monastery, really close from the hostel and really beautiful, the Green Ram Temple and the people's Park. Wenshu is a Buddhist monastery where people are praying and you can freely walk around. As to the Green Ram Temple, it is a Taoist one and you have to pay 10 yuans to enter, but it is worth it. And the People's Park is a Chinese park. This means you find plenty of weird stuff there: people singing, playing badminton, writing caligraphy on the ground, doing fitness...
People's Park is quite close to the Mao Statue and the main square of Chengdu. While the statue looks the same as 5 years ago, the square is totally transformed: a big shopping mall, the entrance to the metro and skyscrapers all around confirm that yes, Chinese have been into the constructing thing these last 5 years.
So yes, quite a big change from the Stans, but a really nice introduction back to China!
People's Park is quite close to the Mao Statue and the main square of Chengdu. While the statue looks the same as 5 years ago, the square is totally transformed: a big shopping mall, the entrance to the metro and skyscrapers all around confirm that yes, Chinese have been into the constructing thing these last 5 years.
So yes, quite a big change from the Stans, but a really nice introduction back to China!
Caligraphy at People's Park
That day we were already trying some hotpot, the famous Sichuanese dish which consists on a pot of boiling spicy sauce in where you cook the food of your choice. Besides that, we discovered a nice and small restaurant next to the hostel with really tasty fried noodles!
Next day was devoted to visit the Pandas in the nearby Breeding Center. 5 years ago I was there but on a tour which I didn't really enjoy, so this time no tours, we woke up early morning and took a bus to the center. We got there quite early so the Pandas were still sleeping, but after a few minutes they started their activity. We spent 4 hours in the center, visiting all the compounds and really enjoying the visit at our own pace, not at the pace that some idiot sets on you.
Next day was devoted to visit the Pandas in the nearby Breeding Center. 5 years ago I was there but on a tour which I didn't really enjoy, so this time no tours, we woke up early morning and took a bus to the center. We got there quite early so the Pandas were still sleeping, but after a few minutes they started their activity. We spent 4 hours in the center, visiting all the compounds and really enjoying the visit at our own pace, not at the pace that some idiot sets on you.
After the Pandas, we went to Jinli street, a typical "traditional" Chinese street. This means it is a touristry street resembling a traditional one but full of souvenir shops, quite expensive restaurants and so on. Still, we had some nice walk, some good noodles and from there we went to the Tibetan neighbourhood close by. In case we could not make it to real Tibet, at least we could see a bit of it there. Actually it is just 2 streets with Tibetan shops and restaurants and Tibetan monks wandering around.
From there back home to sleep a bit. The next day was supposed to be our last one in Chengdu and from there depart to Kunming, but when we went to the train station to book our tickets, surprise: all the trains were full! This is quite common in China, as a lot of people use the efficient trains, so you have to book well in advance if you want to secure a place. Anyway, we booked the ticket for a day later so we had an extra day in Chengdu devoted to walk around the city a bit more, to visit two more "traditional" streets and to have some haircut!
From there back home to sleep a bit. The next day was supposed to be our last one in Chengdu and from there depart to Kunming, but when we went to the train station to book our tickets, surprise: all the trains were full! This is quite common in China, as a lot of people use the efficient trains, so you have to book well in advance if you want to secure a place. Anyway, we booked the ticket for a day later so we had an extra day in Chengdu devoted to walk around the city a bit more, to visit two more "traditional" streets and to have some haircut!
Chinese Parks are really weird!
And so we did. We woke up quite late this time and went to these two streets, which actually was where I had my hostel 5 years ago. And yes, they have changed quite a bit. Full of Chinese tourists, souvenir shops, restaurants... but still, quite ok. We even had a coffee and a chocolate muffin at a Starbucks! Yes, not really Chinese, but after some months travelling you quite appreciate it. We strolled around and so on and then headed to look for a barbershop in which to have a haircut. After much looking around and with a lot of communication problems we finally ended up in a barbershop with nice staff who, despite of not speaking a single word of English, used a translator, so we could kind of communicate and had the haircut together with probably the best headwash I have ever had. They were washing my head for half an hour! Yes, half an hour including a massage and everything. Really good!
After the haircut with all the staff
After the barbershop it was already dark, so we just went to have some street food, in this case some skewers. This is something really good from China. Especially at night, you find plenty of trolleys selling different kind of skewers. You choose the ones you want, they cook them for you and you sit on small chairs on the street to enjoy them at a very cheap price. Oh, and they are delicious!
Back to the hostel, some Tsingtao, a Skype Videochat with Centre d'Estudis Prat, and to bed. Next morning we woke up and went straight to the train station to catch the train to Kunming. It was again an overnight train taking 20 hours but again in a hard sleeper place, so no problem. And besides, Kunming and the Yunnan province are supposed to have a permanent Spring weather all year long, which was quite appreciated after being in cold weather from Mashhad, in Iran. Now it was just about to enjoy a couple of weeks in the South of China and waiting for an answer about Tibet.
For more information on Chengdu don't miss our Chengdu Travel Guide and all the pictures from China!
Back to the hostel, some Tsingtao, a Skype Videochat with Centre d'Estudis Prat, and to bed. Next morning we woke up and went straight to the train station to catch the train to Kunming. It was again an overnight train taking 20 hours but again in a hard sleeper place, so no problem. And besides, Kunming and the Yunnan province are supposed to have a permanent Spring weather all year long, which was quite appreciated after being in cold weather from Mashhad, in Iran. Now it was just about to enjoy a couple of weeks in the South of China and waiting for an answer about Tibet.
For more information on Chengdu don't miss our Chengdu Travel Guide and all the pictures from China!
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