A Rhino in Chitwan National Park
After spending almost two weeks in Kathmandu, we decided to go to Chitwan National Park, located in the South of the country and said to be one of the best places in the world to spot wild rhinos. In addition, it is also one of the few places in the world where you can go on a walking safari, which made it a plus. We spent two days there, took the walking safari and also an elephant ride to fully use the entrance ticket, although this last activity is not something I would recommend. Oh, and yes, we saw rhinos!
Recovered from tiredness, sickness and used to Kathmandu's hectic life, we jumped in a bus at 7 in the morning that should take us to Chitwan National Park. It was our second experience in a long-distance Nepali bus and this time it was a bit better. But just the bus (not as crowded, not as old). The road confirmed that Nepalese roads, and consequently bus rides, are one of the most painful in the world.
The trip took us around 6 hours, although the distance was just a bit more than 100km, so you can imagine the average speed. Winding roads, traffic, stops, queues... not really an enjoyable thing. Nonetheless, the beautiful landscape and the few stops for a snack made the journey a bit more bearable.
The first crocodile we spotted while the safari
We had already booked a hotel in Chitwan, and for our surprise, the guys were waitig for us at the bus station to drive us to the place. We got there, checked-in and had a welcome juice. Nice! The place was also nice: a big garden surrounded by the rooms like small bungalows, it really gave you a feeling of being in the middle of nature, that was actually where we were.
After leaving our stuff in the room, we went out to explore a bit the small town and to try to book a safari for the following day. As we had not booked anything, we could go around and compare prices. We talked to a lot of guides and agencies before deciding that everywhere they offered the same thing, so we decided to just book the safari in our hotel.
The thing was paying an entrance fee to the park valid for two days and then hiring a guide for the walking tour. We opted for a 7-hour walking tour in the jungle together with a couple staying at the same hotel.
After leaving our stuff in the room, we went out to explore a bit the small town and to try to book a safari for the following day. As we had not booked anything, we could go around and compare prices. We talked to a lot of guides and agencies before deciding that everywhere they offered the same thing, so we decided to just book the safari in our hotel.
The thing was paying an entrance fee to the park valid for two days and then hiring a guide for the walking tour. We opted for a 7-hour walking tour in the jungle together with a couple staying at the same hotel.
A local man riding an elephant. They are still used for daily life.
With everything arranged, we spent the rest of the day having a look at the town, which is actually just a few guesthouses and restaurants and a main street. By talking to people they told us we could see the elephants at a special place they are living in, and there we went, although the view we had was quite sad. A few elephants chained and a few more (the old and retired ones) eating around some stables near the river. In Chitwanthere are a few wild elephants and quite a lot domesticated ones used by locals either to work or to carry tourists. When the elephants are too old, they just live in those stables and walk around a bit. In my opinion, not really the best way of taking care of the animals.
What we liked, though, was the landscape we could see from the shore of the river. The town is right next to a it and on the other side is where the Park starts. And guess what: from right there we could see the first crocodile! Yes, a crocodile lying by the shore right in front of us. The thing looked promising for the following day!
After a bit of looking around and taking some piuctures, it was getting dark, so we decided to slowly go back home, this time instead of following the road, following the river, so we walked along the shore and we could enjoy a really beautiful landscape, although no more animals that day (they told us sometimes rhinos can be spotted from there but we had no luck).
What we liked, though, was the landscape we could see from the shore of the river. The town is right next to a it and on the other side is where the Park starts. And guess what: from right there we could see the first crocodile! Yes, a crocodile lying by the shore right in front of us. The thing looked promising for the following day!
After a bit of looking around and taking some piuctures, it was getting dark, so we decided to slowly go back home, this time instead of following the road, following the river, so we walked along the shore and we could enjoy a really beautiful landscape, although no more animals that day (they told us sometimes rhinos can be spotted from there but we had no luck).
A moment of the jungle walk. Krishna helps the British guy to cross a river.
Some dinner at the hotel (not many options in town) and soon to bed, as the next day we had an early wake up to go to the safari, or jungle walk as they call it. We woke up, had breakfast, met Krishna (our guide) and set off together with the couple to the riverside. In there, we jumped onto a boat which took us for an hour until we reached the place where we started to walk. The boat ride was nice and we could start seeing a bit of the Park's wildlife: spotted deer, monkeys, peacocks...
But the fun part started when we got off the boat. It was somewhere in the middle of the jungle and Krishna gave us some instructions, like how to behave if a rhino is charging, if we see some animal and so on. Actually it was a bit scary to be there walking with the only protection of a bamboo stick Krishna was carrying, but ok, if this is the Nepali style, we'll follow it.
But the fun part started when we got off the boat. It was somewhere in the middle of the jungle and Krishna gave us some instructions, like how to behave if a rhino is charging, if we see some animal and so on. Actually it was a bit scary to be there walking with the only protection of a bamboo stick Krishna was carrying, but ok, if this is the Nepali style, we'll follow it.
The closest we were to see a tiger.
And there we went. Accompanied by Krishna and another young guy (by law, you must be with two guides all the time inside the park) we started walking in the middle of the jungle. And it didn't take us very long to start seeing something. As it was early morning and we were by the river, there was quite a lot of activity there, and the first thing we saw was a huge crocodile outside the water. Then we continued walking until the moment came: a rhino! Yes, the guide spotted a rhino next to the river and there we went. It was only a few meters away from us and we could see it perfectly from the distance. Of course we were excited and started to take pictures and so on. It was by far the best moment of the safari.
After the rhino hid himself into the high grass we continued the walk. On the way we saw a lot of birds, monkeys, deers, buffalos, peacocks, wild boars and even one more rhino, this one from further. What we didn't see, though, was any tiger. There are tigers in Chitwan, but they are quite difficult to see and we were not the lucky ones. The closest we were to a tiger was when we saw a tiger footprint, but not the author of it.
After the rhino hid himself into the high grass we continued the walk. On the way we saw a lot of birds, monkeys, deers, buffalos, peacocks, wild boars and even one more rhino, this one from further. What we didn't see, though, was any tiger. There are tigers in Chitwan, but they are quite difficult to see and we were not the lucky ones. The closest we were to a tiger was when we saw a tiger footprint, but not the author of it.
The jungle walk went on, with a stop for lunch where we met another couple (this time an Australian girl and a Canadian guy) who had spotted the same animals as we had. After a bit of talking we moved on but no more big moments. And to be honest, after 7 hours walking in the jungle, we were ready and willing to go back home, which we did after a short boat ride to cross the river. We said goodbye to Krishna and had a bit of rest.
The jungle safari was good. It was not the best experience of my life and neither the best safari but anyway it is something I would recommend to anyone visiting Nepal. You will probably not see big things (if you're lucky to see a rhino it will be a highlight) but you will enjoy the landscape, the wildlife and the thrill of being walking in the middle of a jungle where you know there are wild animals. In addition, you are almost alone there, no crowds and everything is enjoyable. Just don't go expecting to see a lot of tigers and rhinos, you may see them, but I would have it as a bonus, not as a must.
That day, after the safari there was not much more to do, just another walk along the river (no rhinos again but a few water buffalos) and we also decided to book an elephant ride for the next day. That was not something very enjoyable and willing to do as I could imagine the experience, but as the entrance ticket to the park was valid for two days, the elephant thing was the only activity you could do.
The jungle safari was good. It was not the best experience of my life and neither the best safari but anyway it is something I would recommend to anyone visiting Nepal. You will probably not see big things (if you're lucky to see a rhino it will be a highlight) but you will enjoy the landscape, the wildlife and the thrill of being walking in the middle of a jungle where you know there are wild animals. In addition, you are almost alone there, no crowds and everything is enjoyable. Just don't go expecting to see a lot of tigers and rhinos, you may see them, but I would have it as a bonus, not as a must.
That day, after the safari there was not much more to do, just another walk along the river (no rhinos again but a few water buffalos) and we also decided to book an elephant ride for the next day. That was not something very enjoyable and willing to do as I could imagine the experience, but as the entrance ticket to the park was valid for two days, the elephant thing was the only activity you could do.
Buffalos
And well, it was not what you really want to do when visiting Chitwan. While it is true that we almost saw the same wildlife on the elephant as on the jungle walk (except no rhinos), the activity itself was forgettable. Full of loud Chinese people jumping on the elephants, the animals walking one after another... a circus, a bad one. If you go to Chitwan, please, don't ride any elephant, you will not enjoy it, and I don't think the elephant will, either. If you want to experience how it is to ride an elephant, you have plenty of other very good options, especially in Laos, where I enjoyed a mahout (elephant driver) course a few years ago and where elephants are well taken care of. That is an experience and not the one in Chitwan!
The activities in Chitwan came to an end after the elephant circus, and the rest of the day was just devoted to walk around town, visit a nearby village and having a beer by the river. There was not much more to do there, just waiting for the following morning to go back to Kathmandu. However, there was still some time to go and see the daily Tharu festival in the local theatre.
It takes place every night and during one hour you see a representation of the traditional Tharu dances. Note that the Tharu are the people living in the area. The experience was... well, nothing you will always remember, but still good to spend some time.
The activities in Chitwan came to an end after the elephant circus, and the rest of the day was just devoted to walk around town, visit a nearby village and having a beer by the river. There was not much more to do there, just waiting for the following morning to go back to Kathmandu. However, there was still some time to go and see the daily Tharu festival in the local theatre.
It takes place every night and during one hour you see a representation of the traditional Tharu dances. Note that the Tharu are the people living in the area. The experience was... well, nothing you will always remember, but still good to spend some time.
The experience in Chitwan was positive. Although it was not the best in our lives, it is a recommendable trip if you happen to be in Nepal and you have some extra time, but it is not a must-do. You'll be close to nature, to animals and you will experience village life. For us, after Kathmandu, it was like an oasis of peace and calm, we could see a bit more of Nepal and make sure that Kathmandu is just an exception. Nepal is relaxed, calm and quiet, it's just Kathmandu that is crazy. But now it was time to go back to the capital, as in two days the Holi festival was taking place!
You can check now all the Nepal and Chitwan picture gallery as well as the Chitwan National Park Travel Guide, with all details you need to know if you're planning a trip there!
You can check now all the Nepal and Chitwan picture gallery as well as the Chitwan National Park Travel Guide, with all details you need to know if you're planning a trip there!
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