Earthlooping in an ak kalpak at the Seven Bulls together with the two guys who drove us there
After spending almost a week in Bishkek, it was time to get the backpack on again and head towards Karakol, the main town in the Issyk-Kul region, east of Kyrgyzstan. We spent 4 days there, where we were able to see a wonderful mountain landscape, the huge Issyk-Kul lake and heve some small New Year's celebration.
We took our backpack and went to Bishkek's bus station. After almost a week without carrying it, we were back on the road! At the station, after checking different prices, we jumped into a marshrutka which, for 300 soms, would take us to Karakol, the capital of the Issyk-Kul region, probably the most visited in Kyrgyzstan. The most visited in the summer, definitely not in the winter, as we were the only tourists there.
After 6 hours and one stop for lunch on the road, we arrived in Karakol. The road from Bishkek to Karakol was really scenic, especially when you start driving along the lake. It is huge (170 km long), and with the snowed mountains in the background it gives you a really good view. It is actually the second biggest alpine lake in the world after the Titicaca.
Once in Karakol, we took a marshrutka to the hostel. This time it was Bailanysh guesthouse, loceted 10 minutes walking from the center. When we got there only a guy welcomed us, showed us the room and not much else, as the owners were not there that day. But it was ok, a nice room, slow but working internet and warm.
Once in Karakol, we took a marshrutka to the hostel. This time it was Bailanysh guesthouse, loceted 10 minutes walking from the center. When we got there only a guy welcomed us, showed us the room and not much else, as the owners were not there that day. But it was ok, a nice room, slow but working internet and warm.
One of Karakol's streets
That first day we just went to have some dinner in the center of town. It was already dark and actually when it's dark in Karakol it means it's black dark. Not even a single light on the street, so we had to take the headtorch for the ten-minute walk to the center. Without a torch it would have been impossible to get there, as besides being totally dark the ground was slippery because of the ice.
We had dinner at Stealth restaurant, one of the few opened options in town. Karakol is mainly a summer destination and at this time of the year there were no tourists and a lot of places were closed, partly also because of the New Year holidays.
After some good laghman and beer, back to the guesthouse to have some sleep. The following morning we woke up and again, we didn't see the owners anywhere. Ok, we went out towards the main bazar, as the plan was going to Jeti Ögüz, a nearby village famous for its red rock formations.
We had dinner at Stealth restaurant, one of the few opened options in town. Karakol is mainly a summer destination and at this time of the year there were no tourists and a lot of places were closed, partly also because of the New Year holidays.
After some good laghman and beer, back to the guesthouse to have some sleep. The following morning we woke up and again, we didn't see the owners anywhere. Ok, we went out towards the main bazar, as the plan was going to Jeti Ögüz, a nearby village famous for its red rock formations.
Preparing for New Year's Eve
We didn't have much idea of how to get to Jeti Ögüz, so we just showed up in the bazar and started asking around. Karakol Bazar is a total chaos. Even if Karakol is a small town, it has the more chaotic bazar ever. Maybe it was also because people were stocking-up for New Year's celebrations, but it was a place full of people, cars, marshrutkas... everywhere, totaly full so it was quite hard to move around.
In the end we got to the right place to take some transportation to Jeti Ögüz, and after not listening to a taxi driver that assured us there were no marhsrutkas going there (taxi drivers in the Stans countries always play the same, trying to make you believe the only way to go to your destination is by taxi), we found the right marshrutka, jumped into it and in 20 minutes we were in the village of Jeti Ögüz. Jeti Ögüz is a tiny vilage with a few people walking around together with cows, horses and sheeps on the streets.
In the end we got to the right place to take some transportation to Jeti Ögüz, and after not listening to a taxi driver that assured us there were no marhsrutkas going there (taxi drivers in the Stans countries always play the same, trying to make you believe the only way to go to your destination is by taxi), we found the right marshrutka, jumped into it and in 20 minutes we were in the village of Jeti Ögüz. Jeti Ögüz is a tiny vilage with a few people walking around together with cows, horses and sheeps on the streets.
Jeti Ögüz village
The goal of visiting Jeti Ögüz was going to the Seven Bulls and to the Broken Heart, a strange red rock formations some 10 km from there. As we were not in the mood of walking 20 km, we stopped one car with two guys who offered us a ride for 200 soms, quite a good price. They would take us there, wait for us to walk around and take pictures, and then bring us back to the village.
And so we did. We jumped into a really old Soviet Lada car which was hardly running and we made it to the rock formations. On the way there the landscape is amazing: a narrow road with animals crossing it and with massive snowed mountains in front of you. At the end of the road you get to Jeti Ögüz Sanatorium, some kind of hot springs, and next to them you have the Seven Bulls. It is a strange rock formation resembling 7 bulls, as there are 7 rocks (actually I counted 8, though). The rock is red and it looks a bit like the Grand Canyon (just the color).
We took some pictures an back into the Lada, which this time didn't want to start. Some pushing and back onto the road. The next stop was next to the Broken Heart. It is another red rock formation but this time resembling a broken heart, as the rock is split into two.
And so we did. We jumped into a really old Soviet Lada car which was hardly running and we made it to the rock formations. On the way there the landscape is amazing: a narrow road with animals crossing it and with massive snowed mountains in front of you. At the end of the road you get to Jeti Ögüz Sanatorium, some kind of hot springs, and next to them you have the Seven Bulls. It is a strange rock formation resembling 7 bulls, as there are 7 rocks (actually I counted 8, though). The rock is red and it looks a bit like the Grand Canyon (just the color).
We took some pictures an back into the Lada, which this time didn't want to start. Some pushing and back onto the road. The next stop was next to the Broken Heart. It is another red rock formation but this time resembling a broken heart, as the rock is split into two.
The Lada having some problems and the 7 bulls in the background
The rock was nice, but nicer were the river next to it and some other red rocks just accross the road. There was a massive red wall and a small stream next to it, that being winter it looked even nicer with the contrast of the rock and the snow.
When we finished taking pictures and walking around, back into the Lada and to Jeti Ögüz. from there a marshrutka back to chaotic Karakol bazar and I went to shave to a nearby hairdresser. It was quite funny, as the women there were quite shocked to see a foreigner and they even took pictures of me while I was being shaved. they did a good job, though.
The rest of the day was spent going to visit a Chinese mosque, a Russian church and to the tourist informatin to see what were the options around Karakol in wintertime. Actually quite a lot. We could go skiing, to Jeti Ögüz, to some hot springs, to the lake... And we decided we were not in the mood for long trekkings, so we would go to visit the lake the following day.
When we finished taking pictures and walking around, back into the Lada and to Jeti Ögüz. from there a marshrutka back to chaotic Karakol bazar and I went to shave to a nearby hairdresser. It was quite funny, as the women there were quite shocked to see a foreigner and they even took pictures of me while I was being shaved. they did a good job, though.
The rest of the day was spent going to visit a Chinese mosque, a Russian church and to the tourist informatin to see what were the options around Karakol in wintertime. Actually quite a lot. We could go skiing, to Jeti Ögüz, to some hot springs, to the lake... And we decided we were not in the mood for long trekkings, so we would go to visit the lake the following day.
So, next morning we woke up, took a big Soviet bus and went to the beach. Yes, if you go until the end of the line, after some 30 minutes you get to a beach by the Issyk-Kul lake. The views were quite good and although the Issyk-Kul never freezes totally due to having hotsprings underneath it, the shore was completely frozen.
Around an hour later, marshrutka back to Karakol and some shopping for that night, as it was New Year's Eve. People in Karakol (and probably in all Kyrgyzstan) were buying some nice and colorful cakes for that day, which were on display in all shops, so we decided to buy one as well. With a cake, a bottle of champagne and a bit more of food we went back to the hostel to find a nice surprise: the owners were back and they had prepared us some New Year's Eve presents: tea, coffee, champagne, mante (kyrgyz dumplings), salad... and some Christmas decorations in the room. Really nice.
Around an hour later, marshrutka back to Karakol and some shopping for that night, as it was New Year's Eve. People in Karakol (and probably in all Kyrgyzstan) were buying some nice and colorful cakes for that day, which were on display in all shops, so we decided to buy one as well. With a cake, a bottle of champagne and a bit more of food we went back to the hostel to find a nice surprise: the owners were back and they had prepared us some New Year's Eve presents: tea, coffee, champagne, mante (kyrgyz dumplings), salad... and some Christmas decorations in the room. Really nice.
New Year's Eve cakes
After dinner, and around 23:30, we went to Karakol's main square to see if any celebrations were going on. But it was quite disappointing. In the square there was a Christmas tree, some lights saying "happy new year" and only a few people around. It looked like the party had already finished even if it was not yet midnight. In addition, people were taking taxis from there to go home. And yes, the party was over because Kyrgyz people go home to celebrate the New Year at midnight with the family.
At exactly 12 we could see fireworks starting all over Karakol, although small ones. People were throwing them from home. Well, it is a family celebration and they don't do any public thing at 12, so we just drank a bit of champagne and back to the hostel. Soon we were sleeping, so not really a New Year's Eve celebration to remember.
The first day of the year was spent just resting and waiting for the following day to go back to Bishkek, as on the 1st of January everything was closed and we could have had problems to find transportation.
At exactly 12 we could see fireworks starting all over Karakol, although small ones. People were throwing them from home. Well, it is a family celebration and they don't do any public thing at 12, so we just drank a bit of champagne and back to the hostel. Soon we were sleeping, so not really a New Year's Eve celebration to remember.
The first day of the year was spent just resting and waiting for the following day to go back to Bishkek, as on the 1st of January everything was closed and we could have had problems to find transportation.
Issyk-Kul Lake
But on the 2nd everything went back to normal and in the morning we took a marshrutka back to the capital, as we had to go there to be able to go to Almaty, in Kazakhstan, our next destination. 6 more hours of marshrutka and we were in Bishkek. There, instead of heading straight to Kazakhstan, we decided to spend 3 days more just finishing updating the website, so we an have everything up-to-date before heading to Almaty.
You can now check the Issyk-Kul travel guide and all the pictures of the days spent in Kyrgyzstan.
You can now check the Issyk-Kul travel guide and all the pictures of the days spent in Kyrgyzstan.
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