Earthlooping at the top of the Tiger Leaping Gorge
2 days spent doing the most famous trekking in China. They say it is one of the best trekkings in the country and it really is. Walking all the time with a jawdropping view of a deep gorge next to you made the trekking one of the best experiences of the trip so far.
The bus from Lijiang unexpectedly took us less than 2 hours to reach Qiaotou including a small break for lunch some 20 minutes before getting there. There were plenty of Tibetan people in it going to Shangri-La, so we could feel a bit of Tibet before going to the real thing.
Once in Qiaotou, we went to buy the mandatory entry ticket to the Tiger Leaping Gorge and then to the nearby Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse to leave the backpack. You don't really want to carry a big backpack while trekking and we were able to leave it there until we came back.
We took a map and around 2 in the afternoon we started walking. The first part is not really trekking, as you just walk along the road to reach the point where the real trek starts. It took us around one hour under the heat to get to the starting path. And oh my god, the trekking was starting quite strong: what we saw from there was a really steep and narrow path going uphill with a few goats and shepherds on the way. Wow, if this is only the start, we can die, there...
We took a map and around 2 in the afternoon we started walking. The first part is not really trekking, as you just walk along the road to reach the point where the real trek starts. It took us around one hour under the heat to get to the starting path. And oh my god, the trekking was starting quite strong: what we saw from there was a really steep and narrow path going uphill with a few goats and shepherds on the way. Wow, if this is only the start, we can die, there...
On the way to the start of the trekking you can already see stunning views of the mountains
We ate a bit of fruit and started climbing the path. And yes, it was really steep and tiring, plus quite funny going in the middle of the goats and the shepherds. Once we reached the top of the hill the views were impressive, though. From there we walked a bit more and it came the first problem: right or left. We had no clue where the main path was, so we started looking around and after a while a kid called us from the top of a hill. We went there and after the typical difficulties to communicate a guide appeared and showed us the correct way, so there we went. The thing was walking past some brand new fences to the main path. But the problem was that we were totally unable to avoid walking literally next to the fences. It must be that they are so brand new that if you follow the signs you end up walking right next to them, which is not really enjoyable, as they are really huge.
The beginning of the gorge
Anyway, after wasting one hour trying to find the correct way we finally made it to the end of the fences and we met a young Chinese trekker with whom we went to the village where we slept the first night. All in all it took us around 4 hours to go from Qiaotou to Naxi's Family Guesthouse, but the effort was really rewarding, as the village was beautiful, set in the middle of the fields with stunning views of the mountains.
When we got there, the first thing was recovering by having some food and tea. The guesthouse was really beautiful, with a nice courtyard where to chill out while enjoying awesome views of the mountains. After the rest, we left our stuff in the room (a simple one but with beautiful views from the widow) and went for a walk around the village before it got dark.
When we got there, the first thing was recovering by having some food and tea. The guesthouse was really beautiful, with a nice courtyard where to chill out while enjoying awesome views of the mountains. After the rest, we left our stuff in the room (a simple one but with beautiful views from the widow) and went for a walk around the village before it got dark.
Naxi's Family guesthouse, our hostel the first night
It was a really small village, so in 20 or 30 minutes it was totally explored. But it was nice like hell. Set in the slopes of a hill, with some rice terraces, small paths instead of streets, tiny houses and a few animals scattered around. The typical postcard village.
As it was getting already dark, we came back to the guesthouse to have some beers and to chat a bit with the Chinese we met on the way. He spoke some English and told us to join him and a couple of more friends the following morning to go trekking together. Ok, we thought, at least this way we won't get lost that much, as they could speak Chinese and ask for directions.
Later on, some Westerners came to the guesthouse and we had a chat with them, too. In this case, they were from the States and New Zealand and they were camping outside the guesthouse (quite a thing, as at night it was really cold) and they told us they had the same problem with the fences at the beginning (good to know we were not the only idiots trekking attached to fences)
As it was getting already dark, we came back to the guesthouse to have some beers and to chat a bit with the Chinese we met on the way. He spoke some English and told us to join him and a couple of more friends the following morning to go trekking together. Ok, we thought, at least this way we won't get lost that much, as they could speak Chinese and ask for directions.
Later on, some Westerners came to the guesthouse and we had a chat with them, too. In this case, they were from the States and New Zealand and they were camping outside the guesthouse (quite a thing, as at night it was really cold) and they told us they had the same problem with the fences at the beginning (good to know we were not the only idiots trekking attached to fences)
With one of the Chinese trekkers after having finished the 28 bends
After a bit of talking and enjoying the full moon over the mountains, we just went to bed, as the following day was supposed to be a whole day of walking including the famous 28 bends, a steep uphill path of 28 sharp turns.
So we woke up around 8, had some breakfast and started walking with the Chinese we had met and two more trekkers (Chinese ones, too). It was quite cold, but the first part of the trek was quite pleasant, as we were walking in a flat area. In a couple of hours, though, we reached the 28 bends. It is a narrow path going uphill and every turn is marked with a number. Actually it's not that hard, and in less than one hour you are done with them. We only had a stop to rest in the middle and sooner than expected we were at the very top of the whole trekking enjoying one of the most beautiful views of it. We were sitting in a wooden shed and admiring the gorge, the mountains and the river, which was far far away below us.
A few pictures and again to the path. Now it was a really pleasant walk of one or two hours until the next village. The views were not that impressive but still it was very nice, When we reached the village, we had lunch, we rest for an hour or so and back to the trail for a couple of more hours until another village, this time for a beer. Now it was only two hours until reaching Tina's Guesthouse, the end of the trekking, but we didn't know it was probably the toughest part of the trekking.
So we woke up around 8, had some breakfast and started walking with the Chinese we had met and two more trekkers (Chinese ones, too). It was quite cold, but the first part of the trek was quite pleasant, as we were walking in a flat area. In a couple of hours, though, we reached the 28 bends. It is a narrow path going uphill and every turn is marked with a number. Actually it's not that hard, and in less than one hour you are done with them. We only had a stop to rest in the middle and sooner than expected we were at the very top of the whole trekking enjoying one of the most beautiful views of it. We were sitting in a wooden shed and admiring the gorge, the mountains and the river, which was far far away below us.
A few pictures and again to the path. Now it was a really pleasant walk of one or two hours until the next village. The views were not that impressive but still it was very nice, When we reached the village, we had lunch, we rest for an hour or so and back to the trail for a couple of more hours until another village, this time for a beer. Now it was only two hours until reaching Tina's Guesthouse, the end of the trekking, but we didn't know it was probably the toughest part of the trekking.
The toughest but also the most beautiful part. From that last village until you reach the path down to Tina's we were walking all the time right next to a cliff with the gorge on our right-hand side. We crossed bridges, passed by waterfalls... amazing. At some point we reached the trail going down to Tina's, and here started the worst: a really narrow and stoney path that destroys your legs and in which the biggest worry was not to have a sprained ankle.
We followed the path for about one hour or more until we finally reached Tina's and the end of the trekking. All in all were some 7 hours of walking which really were worth the effort. Astonishing landscapes, beautiful villages and the sense of being in the middle of nature made it one of the highlights of the whole trip.
Now, however, the main concern was coming back to Qiaotou. After having some noodles at Tina's we found out there were no more buses going to Qiaotou, so we and the Chinese decided to start walking along the main road and hitch-hike.
It took us some half an hour to find someone who took us back to Qiaotou. We jumped in the minivan and drove the 10km or so back to Jane's guesthouse. And wow, we though the amazing views were over and it was just to get as quick as possible to Qiaotou but what we saw on that road was comparable to the views of the trekking. The road goes along the river in the middle of the gorge and what you see is really impressive. It was almost sunset and it made it even more special, really really nice.
But it was just some 20 minutes until the driver dropped us by Jane's and we said goodbye to the Chinese trekkers. A bit of food, talking with some people that was starting the trekking the following day (and advicing them about the infamous fences) and to sleep as we were quite destroyed after the last 2 days.
We followed the path for about one hour or more until we finally reached Tina's and the end of the trekking. All in all were some 7 hours of walking which really were worth the effort. Astonishing landscapes, beautiful villages and the sense of being in the middle of nature made it one of the highlights of the whole trip.
Now, however, the main concern was coming back to Qiaotou. After having some noodles at Tina's we found out there were no more buses going to Qiaotou, so we and the Chinese decided to start walking along the main road and hitch-hike.
It took us some half an hour to find someone who took us back to Qiaotou. We jumped in the minivan and drove the 10km or so back to Jane's guesthouse. And wow, we though the amazing views were over and it was just to get as quick as possible to Qiaotou but what we saw on that road was comparable to the views of the trekking. The road goes along the river in the middle of the gorge and what you see is really impressive. It was almost sunset and it made it even more special, really really nice.
But it was just some 20 minutes until the driver dropped us by Jane's and we said goodbye to the Chinese trekkers. A bit of food, talking with some people that was starting the trekking the following day (and advicing them about the infamous fences) and to sleep as we were quite destroyed after the last 2 days.
The Tiger Leaping Gorge from the road to Qiaotou
Once the trekking was over, now it was time to go back to Lijiang and from there to Chengdu. We woke up, had some breakfast and from there we went to the main road to try to stop a bus heading to Lijiang. First we met a woman with a minibus looking for more passengers. As she was not really successful, after some half an hour a bus stopped and so we took the backpacks from the woman's minivan and jumped into the bus.
In an hour and a half we were back in the fairytale town, we went to the same hostel and devoted the day to wander around Lijiang again. As we had already seen everything, it was a quite relaxing day just waiting for the next one to go to Chengdu.
And so we did. The following day we woke up, went to have breakfast and to the bus station after stocking up on goods for the long bus trip. At one in the afternoon we had the bus, and this time it was not a sleeper one, but a normal seating bus. And from the very first moment we jumped in it we realised it was going to be quite a tough trip, this time.
And it was. Actually it was, by far, the worst road trip so far since we started in Istanbul. The bus took 24 hours to reach Chengdu, as planned, but the worst is this strange tradition they have in China to stop for sleeping. This time we stopped for 7 hours, yes, 7 hours!!! somewhere on the road next to a hotel. The drivers went to the hotel and the passengers were left inside the bus. This only confirms my opinion that most of Chinese people are stupid. Yes, they are. They have 2 drivers, so why the hell they have to stop for 7 freaking hours to sleep? why don't they do like everywhere else and take turns so we don't have to be stopped 7 hours and we can save this time? I don't get it, really. And of course, we were provided with only one blanket, so it was freezing cold in there. But drivers were enjoying their hotel at the same time... stupid.
In an hour and a half we were back in the fairytale town, we went to the same hostel and devoted the day to wander around Lijiang again. As we had already seen everything, it was a quite relaxing day just waiting for the next one to go to Chengdu.
And so we did. The following day we woke up, went to have breakfast and to the bus station after stocking up on goods for the long bus trip. At one in the afternoon we had the bus, and this time it was not a sleeper one, but a normal seating bus. And from the very first moment we jumped in it we realised it was going to be quite a tough trip, this time.
And it was. Actually it was, by far, the worst road trip so far since we started in Istanbul. The bus took 24 hours to reach Chengdu, as planned, but the worst is this strange tradition they have in China to stop for sleeping. This time we stopped for 7 hours, yes, 7 hours!!! somewhere on the road next to a hotel. The drivers went to the hotel and the passengers were left inside the bus. This only confirms my opinion that most of Chinese people are stupid. Yes, they are. They have 2 drivers, so why the hell they have to stop for 7 freaking hours to sleep? why don't they do like everywhere else and take turns so we don't have to be stopped 7 hours and we can save this time? I don't get it, really. And of course, we were provided with only one blanket, so it was freezing cold in there. But drivers were enjoying their hotel at the same time... stupid.
Some relaxing time in the middle of the trekking
The worst of the trip, though, was not the 7 freezing hours stopped trying to sleep. The worst of all were people. Yes, the Chinese people sharing the bus with us. Besides being rude and dirty, these people like to be loud, especially when you try to sleep, so imagine being in the middle of nowhere stopped during 7 hours trying to sleep with Chinese people being loud like hell next to you. Impossible.
And you know the best? They are not only loud, rude and dirty. They are disgusting. We had a man seating in front of us who started spitting from the very beginning of the trip in a bucket meant to be used as a rubbish bin. And when I say spitting is not exactly accurate. That bastard was spitting till the point of vomiting there. It is the most disgusting thing I have ever seen in a public transport. This time I even went to the driver and told him I couldn't live like that. I was also about of vomiting thanks to that ¿person? They told him to go spitting or vomiting to the window, which he did, but only for a while.
I'm sorry, but most of Chinese people are like that. They can say it's a cultural thing or whatever, but most of Chinese people (of course not all) are stupid, rude, loud, dirty and disgusting, very disgusting. They don't care at all about other people, they just keep spitting around and doing whatever they want, and this time it was really too much.
And you know the best? They are not only loud, rude and dirty. They are disgusting. We had a man seating in front of us who started spitting from the very beginning of the trip in a bucket meant to be used as a rubbish bin. And when I say spitting is not exactly accurate. That bastard was spitting till the point of vomiting there. It is the most disgusting thing I have ever seen in a public transport. This time I even went to the driver and told him I couldn't live like that. I was also about of vomiting thanks to that ¿person? They told him to go spitting or vomiting to the window, which he did, but only for a while.
I'm sorry, but most of Chinese people are like that. They can say it's a cultural thing or whatever, but most of Chinese people (of course not all) are stupid, rude, loud, dirty and disgusting, very disgusting. They don't care at all about other people, they just keep spitting around and doing whatever they want, and this time it was really too much.
The Tiger Leaping Gorge
So the best of finally reaching Chengdu was getting rid of that bus and especially of those Chinese people. And now, the two days in Chengdu were spent making the last arrangements of the tour to Tibet, doing some pending challenges and going to the "traditional" streets for a walk and coffee. The days in China were coming to an end and soon we were taking the highest train of the world, which should take us from Chengdu to Lhasa in 48 hours.
The part of the trip in China was nice. We only visited Chengdu and Yunnan, a province I had not visited during my first trip 5 years ago. In these 5 years, though, I have noticed some differences: China is more developed in terms of infrastructures, prices have grown up, Internet speed has gone down, it looks like they are finally trying to do something with pollution (all motorbikes are electrical)... but they still have a lot to do, especially with educating their people and their manners.
You can now check the Travel Guide to the Tiger Leaping Gorge and all the pictures of the trekking!
The part of the trip in China was nice. We only visited Chengdu and Yunnan, a province I had not visited during my first trip 5 years ago. In these 5 years, though, I have noticed some differences: China is more developed in terms of infrastructures, prices have grown up, Internet speed has gone down, it looks like they are finally trying to do something with pollution (all motorbikes are electrical)... but they still have a lot to do, especially with educating their people and their manners.
You can now check the Travel Guide to the Tiger Leaping Gorge and all the pictures of the trekking!
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